A cold and wet visit to the Laguna de la Cocha and Isla de la Corota, but well worth it.
Giving Salsa a miss
After the adventure in Venezuela, I moved through Colombia quickly, taking a flight from Cucuta through Bogota to the city of Cali. By the time I arrived in this city, it was already late, and I had not planned on spending any time here. (I should have probably spent a day or so here to pick up the basics of dancing, as Cali is considered the Salsa capital of Colombia.) Considering that I was already a few days behind on my rough schedule, I decided not to stay on, and the following day moved on by bus to a small mountain city, Pasto, closer to the southern border with Ecuador. The bus trip was long enough, but the views along the way were spectacular. As with the trip from Bogota going to the northeast, this trip certainly warrants a repeat visit, but perhaps the next time by bicycle.
The wood walking trail across the island
Colombia’s smallest national park
Pasto is a small city, with a nice town square, several churches and a few older buildings worth a visit, including a small gold museum. It is also home to one of the best medical universities in the country. I explored the city on the afternoon that I arrived, and stayed in a comfortable, spacious single room at a hostel in the old city centre. The following day was a Sunday, and although the weather was somewhat cold and wet, I met up with a friend and went for a day-trip to a nearby lake and island, Laguna de la Cocha and Isla de la Corota respectively.
The lake is situated at the base of verdant green hills, and looking from the island back to the land the view is absolutely stunning. The island itself is a protected natural park, Colombia’s smallest flora and fauna sanctuary at approximately 50 acres. The island has a 500 metre trail that leads from one side of the island to the other through the dense rain forest, with at the end of the trail a wonderful viewpoint from which to look across the lake. For pilgrims, there is also the small shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes. On the mainland, a network of canals is quickly developing into a small ‘Venice’ with coffee shops, restaurants, and accommodation. Access to this area from Pasto is easy, simply take a local transport van for about 3 dollars. The boat ride across to the island is easily arranged, and spending an hour or two on the island is a nice diversion (make sure you get a guide to explain the ecosystem).
A quiet lake-side cabin in a grand setting
Cross country, cross border, Ecuador in my sights
Returning from the island, we did a walking tour of some of the main sites in Pasto, before it was time for me to start packing and get ready for the following day’s trip across the border and into Ecuador. This time, I didn’t anticipate any problems, neither at the border, nor on any of the buses I would be taking to get to Quito. From Pasto to Ipialis, the distance is approximately 80km and from Ipialis to Quito approximately 250km. Due to its proximity to Ipialis, Pasto is often a final stopping place for travellers heading to Ecuador, or for those arriving from Ecuador. At Ipialis, a change of vehicle was required, from bus to local van – beware, you should probably get a taxi, as the vans go straight to the Ecuadorian border post, bypassing the Colombian immigration building. As I got out of the van, I was asked if I had already exited Colombia properly, which I hadn’t, which meant I had to walk back to the Colombian immigration office, 200 meters back across the bridge. The Colombian exit process was quick and easy; then the same 200 meters back across to Ecuador, where the process was easy although slow. By 2 pm I was in Ecuador, and in a taxi to take me to Tulcan, where I caught a bus to Quito. The entire trip went smoothly, until I arrived at the bus station in Quito.
Old city centre, Pasto Narino, Colombia
I wasn’t quite sure where my host lived, nor did I have the right directions to his home. I searched for a new Chip or SIM card so that I would have local data access on my telephone, and just as I started typing the first few lines of a message to confirm my arrival and to get directions to my host’s home, my telephone beeped a few notes and then died, even though I had clearly seen that the battery charge was supposed to be at least 25%. A coffee later, and a frantic search for an electrical outlet so I could charge my phone, I finally managed to get my phone working again, and sent out the necessary messages. It was only a few moments later that I received a reply along with a complete address. As it was already getting late, I opted to take a taxi instead of attempting to navigate the city in local buses to my destination for the day. As I sat in the back of the taxi, I took stock of my new surroundings. I reflected on all the things that I had seen, learned and experienced over the previous few weeks of travel, and realized that I was well and truly having one of the greatest times of my life.
